From The Delight Hotel in Swakopmund the 4½-hour (326km) route north-east to Damara Mopane Lodge takes you on a fascinating route through the country. It begins with the coastal road northwards towards Henties Bay and then veers inland to pass Brandberg, Namibia’s highest mountain. Continuing over the Ugab River in the heart of desert elephant territory, it passes Herero women in their flamboyant dress on the way to Damara Mopane Lodge, a welcoming destination east of Khorixas. Here, set in an oasis of mopane trees, this special lodge radiates a charm all of its own. Built in a semi-circle labyrinth design as in kingdoms of old, the lodge utilises its underground water wisely nurturing an array of small food gardens.